Corte Vetusto Ensamble II Mezcal
Corte Vetusto Ensamble II Mezcal is a small batch mezcal made from three different agave plants, the espadin, the tobala, and the karwinskii.
I recently tasted and reviewed Corte Vetusto’s medal-winning Espadin Mezcal, and had this to say about it:
‘… the mezcal is incredibly smooth, with that balance of smoke and sweetness, but also some of the spice and citrus that you expect on good tequilas and whiskies, and a hint of pear as well.’
The espadin is the agave most commonly used for making mezcal, and can produce mezcals that are tasty but bog-standard. In the hands of someone like Juan Carlos Gonzalez Diaz, though, the Maestro Mezcalero at Corte Vetusto (‘The Ancient Cut’) the very common espadin can make sublime mezcals.
What is mezcal? See my Mexican Spirits 101 page.
The Tobala Agave
The tobala is at the other end of the scale from the espadin. If the espadin is the workhorse of the agave world, then the tobala is the thoroughbred. It’s scarcer, harder to grow, and harder to make mezcal with. Get it right, though, and it produces a mezcal that is far subtler than the espadin.
The Karwinskii Agave
The karwinskii agave is something else yet again. It’s actually a family of several different agaves, though they all have one thing in common. Whereas other agaves look like giant pineapples, the karwinskii agave is more like a little palm tree. The pina or heart of the agave grows not on the ground but at the top of a stalk, and the stalk is also used for making mezcal. The specific variety used in this mezcal is the madrecuishe.
The result is a mezcal that is on the dry rather than sweet side, so to combine these three very different agaves in one mezcal is certainly a challenge for the Maestro Mezcalero. It’s why this Ensamble II is made in small batches and is a chance for the mezcal lover to try something very special.
The Corte Vetusto Ensamble Range
This Ensamble II is the second in the distillery’s Ensamble series, which is unusual because, as the name suggests, it’s an ensemble of different agave plants. In this case it’s the espadin, the tobala, and the karwinskii. On the way soon will be Ensamble III (50/50 Espadin & Madrecuishe) and Ensamble IV (equal parts Espadin, Tobala & Tepextate).
Making Corte Vetusto Ensamble II Mezcal
The three agave plants are used in equal measures. They are cooked in an earth oven and then pressed on a traditional stone tahona. The resulting liquid is allowed to ferment naturally, and is then distilled twice. The first distillation is in a copper pot still, with a second distillation in an unusual ancestral clay pot still.
Tasting Corte Vetusto Ensamble II Mezcal
The mezcal is 43.5% ABV (87 proof) and is crystal clear to look at. One sniff and you know you’re in the presence of something unusual. There’s a complex mix of aromas – chalky, sweet, lemon, herbs, definitely alcohol, a slight smokiness, and something I can only describe as gravelly – the smell of dusty stones on a hot day. Sounds weird but that’s the image I got from part of the aroma.
Tasting the mezcal, it’s also filled with flavors. It has both a vanilla and a honey sweetness to it, but also tart lemon/lime citrus, spicy pepper, fresh herbal and floral tastes… but thankfully no gravel. The alcohol is strong on the finish, with a warming feeling, and an earthy reminder that this is indeed a mezcal made from agave plants. You also discover from this that not all mezcals are heavily smoky.
Awards
- Double Gold at the International Spirits Challenge (ISC) 2020
- Best in Category and Gold Medal at the American Distilling Institute’s Judging of Craft Spirits 2019
Photo by Anna Bruce
Corte Vetusto Ensamble II Mezcal
You can find out more on the Corte Vetusto website, where you can also order the mezcal at $96, including shipping. You can also buy it from Caskers in the USA. It’s also available in the UK and in other countries through Master of Malt.
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